One of the perks of this “job” is that Ioften get invited to restaurants for apeek into their offerings. Ican’t and don’t always go. Even when they’re in the town Ilive in. But Idid say yes to Experience Columbus recently. They were arranging aculinary tour of that city in Ohio and Iknew Iwanted to go. I’ve been there before. Columbus is not the kind of city you can go to once and feel you’ve done it. Especially when it comes to the Columbus Food Scene. It’s vibrant and constantly getting better andbetter.
So despite the fact that I’m not really arestaurant blogger, Ihoped aplane and asked for reservations all over town. Because this trip Iwanted to eat alot and Iwanted to learn about what Iwas eating.
I should tell you that one of the reasons Idon’t say yes to alot press trips is this– Ican be abad guest. Iknow you think I’m anice guy. But something happens when someone lays aplate of something particularly delicious in front of me. Ialmost immediately flip whatever it is upside-down. Waiters have gasped and giggled. Some have even asked me what was wrong. But nothing is wrong. I’m just bad sometimes. Partly because I’m constantly deconstructing whatever is served to me. Dissecting it on the plate and trying to get to the bottom of how it was made. I’m an embarrassment to my fellow diners and awhole lot of publicists have removed me from their lists because of this appalling habit.
But Ican’t help it. I’m acook first. Ijust am.
Fortunately for Columbus, Ibehaved myself this time. Igot in and out of the nicest restaurants in town without making ascene. Because this time Iwised up. This time Ihad the brains to ask for recipes from some of the restaurants and chefs Ienjoyed in Columbus. And guess what? Icame with recipes to try myself. Which helps me learn just how the heck they did that! Which means I’ve cooked them up and Iphotographed them. Now I’m going to share two of my favorites withyou.
serves 6Click here for aprintable recipe
This can be served as afirst course chilled soup. But Basi Italia served it as an amuse bouche in little shot glasses whose striking red color was aplayful way to start themeal.
- 2 red beets washed and quartered
- 1 pt strawberries, washed anddried
- 2 large shallots, peeled &halved
- 1 stalk celery, quartered crosswisw
- 1 orange, zestonly
- 1/2 t crushed red pepper, or totaste
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 2 c white wine
- 1/4 c white wine vinegar
- 8 c vegetable stock
- 1/2 c grated fresh horseradish
- 1/2 c very good extra-virgin oliveoil
- 1/2 lemon, zestonly
- 3 strawberries cut into very tiny dice (optional)
- 6 or more fresh mint leaves, or chives stalks, as garnish
Place beets, strawberries, shallots, celery, orange zest, red pepper flakes, cinnamon, white wine, vinegar, and vegetable stock in alarge stock pot, set over medium low heat. Bring to aboil, simmer and reduce to 4cups, about 11/2 hours. Remove from heat and let liquid steep for at least 1hour before straining though fine mesh sieve. Chill liquid well and season with salt and white pepper to taste. Consommé may be made up to one day ahead, stored covered and refrigerated.
Add 1/2 cup grated fresh horseradish, olive oil, and lemon zest to asmall saucepan set over medium-low heat. Bring oil to asimmer for 5minutes. turn of heat and let oil steep for at least 1hour. Strain oil through fine sieve. May be made up to one day ahead, stored covered and refrigerated.
To serve divide tiny dice of strawberries (if using) between 6chilled soup bowls or 16 shot sized glasses. Pour the consommé on top. Drizzle with horseradish oil to taste just before before serving, garnish with mint, chives or an herb of youchoice.
Adapted from Basi Italia, Columbus, Ohio
Crab Legs Poached in Clarified Butter serves 4Click here for aprintable recipe
Buying wild Alaskan crab legs that are steamed almost immediately after the catch then flash frozen ensures the freshest product possible. It also makes this tasty appetizer asnap to prepare.
- 2 sticks unsalted butter, cubed and at room temperature
- 2 large steamed, frozen and thawed Alaskan king or snow crab legs, or asneeded
- 1 bay leaf
- 5 whole black peppercorns
- 1 pn salt, optional
- 16 sli toasted baguette
Set amedium sized, heavy bottom sauce pan over medium heat. Make sure it is dry and clean. Place the butter in the pan, and cook uncovered until the butter melts. You will notice awhite foam sitting on top aclear yellow liquid. At this point you will hear the butter crackle. This is the water in the butter cooking off. It might also bubble irregularly and that isfine.
Once the crackling begins, lower the heat to low and cook swirling the pan occasionally until the butter fat and foam begin to very lightly brown and sink to the bottom. Watch it carefully you want all the butter fats to get light brown but you don’t want to scorch or burn them. Iusually remove it from the heat when most of the white foam has sunk and colored but abit remains on top as it will continue to cook once it leaves theheat.
Let cool about 20 minutes, then strain though afine sieve lined with adouble thickness of cheesecloth. Make sure all the milk solids are strained out; strain twice ifneeded.
Store the clarified butter in aclean, dry jar. But don’t put the lid on until fully cooled. May be kept at room temperature or refrigerated.
When ready to serve. Cut the bulbous knuckle ends from the crab claws using aserrated knife. Cut the legs on either side of all the joints. Then cut all the pieces into 4or 5‑inch length. Save the knuckle and joints for another use.
Starting on the narrow end of each piece of crab, carefully but firmly push the crab meat out of its tubular shell. Try to get it out in one clean piece. Discard the shells. Cut all the crab meat into bite-sized, cleanly cut chunks. Move the pieces of meat to ashallow serving bowl, just large enough to hold them in asingle layer.
Place the clarified butter into asmall saucepan. Add 1bay leaf, 5black peppercorns and apinch of salt (optional) to the clarified butter. Set over very low heat to gently warm it. Your goal is warm enough to infuse its flavors but not so hot as to further cook the crab. Bath temperature is about right. You should be able to stick your finger in it and notice that it is quite warm but not scalding.
Pour this liquid, spices and all over the crab pieces. Serve warm with toasted baguette slices on theside.
